All About Olives
Through the Mists of Time
Although a relatively new addition to the British store cupboard, people in the Mediterranean region have been using olive oil for thousands of years. When the oil was first used, or how people learned to extract it, is lost in the mists of time. But there is evidence that olive oil was first cultivated in Syria approximately 6,000 years ago.
The Bible contains numerous references to both the culinary and ceremonial use of olive oil. In the Book of Genesis, for example, a dove is despatched by Noah to search for dry land and returns with an olive branch. Interpreted as a sign of the end of God's anger, the olive branch became a symbol of peace and today it features in the logo of the United Nations.
In the Book of Exodus, Moses was taught by God how to make an anointing oil for ceremonial purposes by combining olive oil with spices. During consecration, holy anointing oil was poured over the head of kings and priests and the Roman Catholic Church continues its use in baptisms and for the last rites.
Inscribed earthenware tablets from Crete dating back to 2500 BC are the oldest known references to olive oil. Ancient philosophers, physicians and historians referred to the curative properties of extra virgin olive oil and Aristotle elevated olive cultivation to a science. But it was the Phoenicians, somewhere around 1200 BC, who taught the Greeks that the precious oil could also be used as a source of light.
Anne Dolamore in her book 'The Essential Olive Oil Companion' recounts a famous story from Greek mythology which is one version of the origin of the olive tree.
"There was a contest between the goddess, Pallas Athene, and Poseidon for control of the land of Attica. Zeus promised the land to the one who provided the most useful gift. Poseidon struck the ground with his trident and a magnificent horse sprung forth. Athene produced an olive tree and was judged victorious."
Athena was almighty in her triumph as the olive tree could bear fruit to eat, oil to heal and make light and the wood to be used for warmth and buildings which made it the far more superior gift. The citizens of Attica rejoiced and later named the city after her naming it Athens.
It is believed that by the 5th Century BC olive oil was produced in such abundance in Greece that it became a major export. The tree had such high importance to the Greeks and their economy, that olive groves were considered to be sacred ground and only virgins and chaste men were allowed to cultivate them. Supposedly the use of 'Virgin Olive Oil' comes from this.
Cultivation & Harvest
Olives are grown and oil is produced traditionally on the fringes of the Mediterranean, with Greece, Spain, Italy, France and Tunisia accounting for most of the oil produced. Increasingly, however, there are new entrants to the market with producers in Australia, New Zealand, South Africa and California.
The olive harvest begins in Autumn but the exact time depends on whether the olives are destined for eating or oil production. Not all the fruit on an olive tree is ready for gathering at the same time and pickers will return to a tree many times during the course of a harvest. Fruit for oil production is taken as soon as it reaches optimum ripeness when it will yield the maximum oil with the most flavour.
In many regions, olives are beaten from the trees with long poles and the fruit is caught in large nets. Many farmers now harvest using tractors with claws which grasp the trunk of the tree and then vibrate to shake dislodge the fruit. But the best method of harvesting is by hand - picking each fruit and carefully placing it in a basket to avoid damage as bruised fruit produces poor quality oil.
Oil Production
Today, few farmers produce their own oil but deliver their harvest to local co-operative mills for pressing. Olives are pressed as soon as possible after picking because piles of olives produce heat causing fermentation and exposure to air resulting in oxidisation, both of which impair quality.
Whole olives are first crushed to shred the flesh and release the oil. Thousands of years ago crushing was done manually. Today olives are crushed using mechanical stainless steel grindstones. Mainly, the oil is separated from the resulting paste using a centrifuge, which spins the paste at high speed. There is also a method involving stainless steel blades which gently collect the oil.
Whilst the oil may be filtered, it is otherwise untreated and is totally natural. Olive oil is graded according to acidity.
Virgin Olive Oil Classification
Olive oil has become one of the most regulated commodities in the EU and Brussels has not been tardy about applying some rigid guidelines for its marketing and labelling.
Below is an extract from a Ministry of Agriculture, Fisheries and Foods leaflet OMS 2 (Rev 9/99) entitled Olive Oil Marketing Standards - Explanatory Leaflet.
Virgin Olive Oils
Oils obtained from the fruit of the tree solely by mechanical or other physical means under conditions, particularly thermal conditions, that do not lead to alteration in the oil, which have not undergone any treatment other than washing, decantation, centrifugation and filtration, to the exclusion of oils using solvents or re-estrification processes and any mixture with oils of other kinds. (Phew! Bet you can't understand that on first reading)
Virgin Olive Oils are classified and described as follows:
Extra Virgin Olive
Oil Virgin olive oil having a maximum free acidity, in terms of oleic acid, of 0.8g per 100g, the other characteristics of which comply with those laid down from this category.
Virgin Olive Oil
Virgin olive oil having a maximum free acidity, in terms of oleic acid of 2g per 100g, the other characteristics of which comply with those laid down from this category.
Olive Oil
Olive oil obtained by blending refined olive oil and virgin olive oil, other than lampante oil, having a free acid content, expressed as oleic acid, of not more than 1.5g per 100g and the other characteristics of which comply with those laid down from this category.
Olive Pomace Oil
Oil obtained by blending refined olive-pomace oil and virgin olive oil other than lampante oil, having a free acid content expressed as oleic acid of not more than 1.5g per 100g and the other characteristics of which comply with those laid down from this category.
Beyond Extra Virgin
Basically there are 3 broad categories of Extra Virgin Olive Oil defined by the level of flavour, style and intended use:
Sweet and Delicate
Good All Round
Strong and Punchy.
There are then two broad price bands:
Everyday (for everyday use) and
Highday (for special occasions or dishes).
One other thing, the answer to the question, "which is the best olive oil?" is, simply, the one you like the best. Generally, which oil to use and when is entirely personal preference. A useful guide is to Make your choice based upon how much flavour you want to add to a dish.
Much of the olive oil that graces the shelves of the larger shop outlets are blends. This often means that oils from different regions and varieties of olives are blended together to produce a consistent flavour, aroma and appearance. All the well known brands fall into this category and, whilst they are of reasonable quality, they can be a little bland.
Over the years we've pioneered the introduction of single variety Extra Virgin Olive Oils. Each oil is pressed from one variety of olive only and has a distinctive flavour which is affected by soil, climate, maturity and processing method. People are often surprised to discover how different single variety Oils are from each other.
In the same way as some wines are identified by grape variety, our oils take the name of the olive from which they were pressed. The broad characteristics are unlikely to vary from year-to year but with the subtle, natural variations in climate, treatment, harvesting and so on the oil will, likewise have it's own subtle variations from year to year whcih for us is part of the joy of a natural product. However, unlike wine, olive oil does not improve with age.
Olives
Thank goodness not all olives end up as oil! There are few things more satisfying than a dish of plump glossy olives to enjoy with a glass of wine.
Olives, broadly speaking, are either green or black (or somewhere between the two). But what's the difference?
When the fruit begins to form on the tree it contains no oil just a mixture of acid and sugar. Gradually, as the fruit ripens, the acid and sugar turn into oil whilst at the same time changing colour from palest green, through rose and violet to the deepest aubergine colour. Whilst olives can be picked at any stage, the degree of ripeness determines the taste and green olives are totally inedible without being cured.
In their untreated state, green olives are very bitter and it is surprising that people ever discovered they were edible. Commercially produced olives are usually soaked in a soda solution to remove the bitter taste, they are then washed in clean water and finally packed in brine. This is the stage at which they are offered for sale. In the UK people tend to eat them as they are but in Mediterranean the olives are likely to be marinated using family recipes.
Green olives are also the most likely to be stuffed with a whole range of fillings including garlic, anchovy, pepper, almonds, cornichons (tiny baby gherkins - delicious and very cute).
Purple olives are fully ripe, have a high oil content, a mellow flavour and soft flesh. Normally, they are simply washed and preserved in brine.
Healthy on the Inside
The health benefits of olive oil were first widely acknowledged by the scientific community in the mid-1950's.
The virtues of the Mediterranean diet have been promoted with increasing enthusiasm ever since.
The diet of people living in the European Mediterranean tends to be high in cereals, fish, fruit and vegetables with the primary source of fat being olive oil.
Whilst there is no scientific consensus, numerous studies have shown the benefits of substituting monounsaturated fats, as found in olive oil, for the saturated fats found in meat and dairy products. It is now widely accepted that Olive Oil is perhaps the most healthy of all fats.
It is also widely believed that antioxidants such as vitamins E and K, which are abundant in olive oil, provide a defence mechanism that delays ageing and prevents carcinogenesis, atherosclerosis and liver disorders.
So it seems that the route to a long, healthy life is:
* Increase the levels of mono unsaturated fat in your diet by replacing other fats (butter, margarine, animal fat, sunflower oils, nut and seed oils) with Extra Virgin Olive Oil.
* Reduce the levels of saturated fats in your diet (butter, cheese, red meat).
* Eat more fresh fruit, vegetables and cereals.
* Eat more fish.
* Do 30 minutes of moderate exercise per day.
* Be nice to each other.
Beautiful on the Outside
Not only is olive oil good for you, it can also be used to make you look better too.
For the softest hands imaginable
Mix one teaspoon of olive oil with half a teaspoon of salt and massage into your hands. The salt exfoliates and the oil softens. You will be amazed at how soft, smooth and blemish free your hands look. Also useful for removing heavy staining, oil etc. Works well on elbows, knees, feet and can be used as an all over scrub prior to bathing (probably best to take a shower unless you fancy sitting in the middle of an oil slick!). For particularly rough skin, substitute sugar for the salt.
For soft, shiny, manageable hair
Massage olive oil into your hair and leave for as long as possible before shampooing. Repeat weekly.
For a relaxing massage
Warm some olive oil (place container in hot water for 5 minutes) and add a drop or two of your favourite essential oil.
